Bermudagrass – Lawn Care in Arkansas

Before bermudagrass begins to grow in the spring, you may mow the turf slightly shorter than normal to remove dead leaf blades and other debris. This practice will reduce shading of the emerging plants and also serve to warm soil temperatures more quickly in the spring. Begin mowing regularly when the grass turns green in the spring and reaches the desired mowing height.

Bermudagrass should be mowed at 0.5 to 2.5 inches. Hybrid bermudagrass cultivars should be mowed at heights from 0.5 to 1.5 inches. Common bermudagrass should be mowed at 1.5 to 2.5 inches. Higher mowing heights may be needed on uneven lawns to avoid scalping. Mow often to avoid removing more than one­third of the leaf blade.

It isn’t necessary to collect clippings unless they remain as clumps on the lawn surface. Mowing more frequently to avoid clipping buildup is more efficient than emptying the collection bag.

For more information about mowing, see Mowing Your Lawn, FSA6023.

Apply 0.5 to 1.0 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet approximately three weeks after the grass turns green in late May. Submit a soil sample to determine phosphorus and potassium requirements, if you haven’t already (contact your county Extension office). Apply lime if suggested. For more information about soil pH in lawns, see Liming Your Lawn, FSA6134.

To determine the amount of fertilizer product required to apply 1.0 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet, divide 1.0 by the first number (%) in the fertilizer ratio. For example, for a 20­5­5 fertilizer (containing 20% nitrogen), divide 1.0 by 0.20 (NOTE: 20% = 0.20). The result is 5 pounds of product per thousand square feet. For more information about fertilization and calculating the amount of fertilizer you need to apply, see Fertilizing Your Lawn, FSA2114.

Irrigation is seldom needed on bermudagrass during the spring except for newly sodded areas or if dry, hot, windy conditions occur for an extended period. A dark, bluish gray color, foot­printing and wilted, folded or curled leaves indicate it is time to water. Proper irrigation may prevent or reduce pest problems and environmental stress later in the summer.

Apply preemergence herbicides to control crabgrass in late February or early March. Control broadleaf weeds with a postemergence application of a two­ or three­way herbicide containing 2,4­D + dicamba and/or MCPP (Ortho® Weed­B­Gon®). Do not exceed two applications per year of a two­ or three­way herbicide containing 2,4­D + dicamba and/or MCPP with a minimum of 30 days between applications.

Use a product containing quinclorac for postemergence crabgrass control. Use SedgeHammer® (halosulfuron) for post­ emergence control of sedges.

For weed pictures and more control information, find Turfgrass Weed Control, MP521. See page 8 for crabgrass control, page 16 for sedge control and pages 11, 13 and 17 for broadleaf control.

Small (1­ to 3­inch) circular, shaded, straw­colored spots in your lawn appearing several weeks after greenup are likely an indicator of the disease dollar spot. Larger dead spots (1 to 3 feet) in diameter appearing during spring greenup and for several weeks following likely indicate the presence of spring dead spot.

For more information about these diseases, see FSA7541, Dollar Spot of Turfgrass in the Home Landscape, and FSA7551, Bermudagrass Spring Dead Spot.

Check for insect pests and treat if necessary.

Replant large bare areas using sod or plugs planted on 6­ or 12­inch centers. Applying a preemergence herbicide that does not interfere with root growth after plugging helps prevent weed encroachment.

Common bermudagrass can be seeded at 0.5 to 1 pound per thousand square feet in lawns not treated with a preemergence herbicide within the previous two months.

Bermudagrass should be mowed every 5 to 7 days and less often when the lawn is drought stressed.

Apply 0.5 to 1.0 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet every 4 to 6 weeks using the March through May fertilizing guidelines. The interval between fertilizer applications may be increased by applying a slow­ release fertilizer.

Water early in the morning to wet the soil to a depth of 4 to 6 inches. Probe with a screwdriver to determine moisture depth. Bermudagrass needs a weekly application of 1 to 1.25 inches of water to retain its color during summer. It needs even less to survive and can go several weeks without supple­ mental irrigation.

On sandy soils, it requires more frequent watering: for example, 0.5 inch of water every third day. It is often necessary to irrigate an area for three to five hours to apply 1 inch of water with most homeowner irrigation systems. (It takes 620 gallons of water to apply 1 inch of water per thousand square feet.)

Because clay soils accept water slowly, irrigate these areas until runoff occurs; wait one­half hour until the water has been absorbed, and then continue irrigating until the desired depth or amount is obtained. A dark, bluish gray color, foot­printing and wilted, folded or curled leaves indicate that it is time to water.

Thatch needs to be removed every two to three years through core aerification or dethatching. Cultivation during the early summer is preferred because moisture is usually not limiting and growth is optimum for recovery.

For more information about thatch, see Thatch Prevention and Control, FSA6139.

Check for insect pests and treat if necessary.

Apply postemergence herbicides as needed to control summer broadleaf weeds such as spurge, knotweed and lespedeza. For postemergence crabgrass control, apply a product containing quinclorac. Make two applications 14 days apart. Use SedgeHammer® (halosulfuron) for sedge control.

Apply post­ emergence herbicides only when weeds are present, the lawn is actively growing and not suffering from drought. To improve annual bluegrass control, apply a preemergence herbicide on August 15 and water in immediately.

Replant large bare areas using sod or plugs planted on 6­ or 12­inch centers. Applying a preemergence herbicide that does not interfere with root growth after plugging helps prevent weed encroachment.

Common bermudagrass can be seeded at 0.5 to 1 pound per thousand square feet. Seeding in spring or early summer will enhance the winter hardiness of bermudagrass seedlings.

Bermudagrass should be mowed every 5 to 7 days and less often when the lawn is drought stressed.

Apply no more than 0.5 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet in September, four to six weeks before the first expected frost. Potassium can be applied if soil tests indicate a need. If potassium is needed, use a low­nitrogen, high­potassium fertilizer such as a 10­0­40 or supplement a nitrogen fertilizer source with 1 pound of potash using 1.6 pounds of muriate of potash (0­0­60) per 1,000 square feet.

Several manufacturers offer winterizing fertilizers with various combinations of nutrients. When using these products, try to find one that approximates at 4­1­6 ratio of nitrogen­phosphorous­potassium and contains iron, which will extend color into fall.

Apply lime during these months if recommended by your soil test.

Follow the March through May irrigation guidelines. Dormant bermudagrass may still need to be watered periodically when dry, windy conditions occur for an extended period. Additionally, newly planted sod should be watered during this period to prevent desiccation.

Some diseases such as spring dead spot are active in the fall despite the fact that no symptoms are visible. If your lawn has a history of spring dead spot, fall applications of fungicides may be beneficial.

For more information about this disease, see FSA7551, Bermudagrass Spring Dead Spot.

Apply postemergence herbicides as needed to control broadleaf weeds such as henbit and chickweed. Do not exceed two applications per year of a two­ or three­way herbicide containing 2,4­D + dicamba and/or MCPP with a minimum of 30 days between applications.

Mow bermudagrass overseeded with perennial or annual ryegrass as often as needed not to remove more than one­third of the leaf blade. Recycle nutrients by not collecting the clippings unless they accumulate heavily on the surface. Dormant bermudagrass that has not been overseeded does not need mowing.

Do not fertilize bermudagrass that has not been overseeded. For overseeded bermudagrass, apply 1⁄2 pound of nitrogen per thousand square feet in December and February. In the absence of a soil test, use a complete (N­P­K) turf­grade fertilizer with a 3­1­2 or 4­1­2 ratio (for example, 12­4­8 or 24­6­12). Submit soil samples for analysis every 2­3 years to determine your lawn’s nutrient requirements. Be sure to specify your lawn species.

Newly planted sod should be watered during this period to prevent desiccation. Watering is particularly important for lawns that have been overseeded.

Control winter broadleaf weeds such as henbit, chickweed, spurweed and hop clover with a post­ emergence application of a two­ or three­way herbicide containing 2,4­D + dicamba and/or MCPP (Ortho® Weed­B­Gon®). Do not exceed two applications per year of a two­ or three­way herbicide contain­ ing 2,4­D + dicamba and/or MCPP with a minimum of 30 days between applications.

Apply postemergence herbicides only when weeds are present. Do not use glyphosate for winter weed control in bermudagrass unless it is completely dormant (no sign of green on any part of the plant). Do not use glyphosate unless it can be applied uniformly at 0.5 pounds of active ingredient per acre at a water volume between 10 and 30 gallons per acre.