Vines
December 2014
When is the best time to cut back a wisteria? We planted ours 9 years ago when we
first moved to Arkansas and it is almost bigger and heavier than the trellis that
supports it and we want to re-route it.
Don’t touch it now, since flower buds are set for blooms next spring. The time to
prune wisteria is right after flowering in the spring—or if yours is not old enough
to bloom, after it begins to start leafing out. Heavy pruning is recommended annually
to keep it in bounds and prevent it from spreading too aggressively.
September 2012
We're preparing to stain our deck and we have a Carolina Jasmine that is wound around
one part of the railing. Last time we stained, we managed to pull it loose and lay
it on the ground in order to work that area of the railing. My question is can I cut
it back significantly and if so, when? How far down?
Carolina jasmine or Carolina Jessamine is a tough plant and would survive being cut
back, but it would impact its flowering ability next spring. Flower buds are already
set not for next spring. The best time to do severe pruning, without impacting flowering
would be in the spring, immediately following flowering.
March 2012
I have a scuppernong vine that has gotten out of control. I was recently told to cut
the vine down to the ground and let it restart. This seemed a little extreme and I
am not sure I would be brave enough to do this to mine. What are your thoughts on
this advice?
Is it producing well? If it is, then there is room to salvage it. Scuppernongs are
a type of muscadine grape and they can be quite prolific. You also need a male and
a female plant to get fruit. I would try to prune it back by 1/3 – ½ and try to keep
it pruned to a trellis or fence. If left to its own devices, it can grow up into your
trees and all over your landscape. Growing in the shade of a large tree can cut down
on its production. It does much better in full sun. Make sure to prune annually to
keep it growing and producing to its full potential.
December 2009
How and when do you trim a trumpet vine? Our trumpet vine is about three years old
and covers a 8 by 8 trellis.
Trumpet vine, Campsis radicans, is a fast growing, sometimes invasive deciduous vine.
It produces large orange trumpet shaped flowers all growing season, provided it doesn’t
get too much nitrogen. Prune it hard in the spring before new growth begins.
July 2010
I have an overgrown clematis vine. Do I cut the vine back at the end of the season?
It depends on which clematis you are growing. If you have one that blooms all summer
you prune before growth begins in the spring. If yours only blooms in the spring,
you allow it to bloom and then prune in late spring, but pruning back in the fall
shouldn't be a great option for either one. Then there is the sweet autumn clematis
that blooms late summer through fall and it typically dies back during the winter.
July 2010
I have a wisteria that is over a large arbor. It bloomed this year for the first time.
I read that you should prune (hard) the wisteria after blooming. Is this right? and
what does hard pruning actually mean?
You are getting a bit late to prune. We like to prune wisteria back hard--cutting
off roughly half of the growth after bloom to keep it in check. If it is allowed to
grow, any place it comes in contact with the soil it will root. It can also grow up
trees and the woody vines can girdle and harm the trees. If you have a large arbor
you can simply keep it pruned to the arbor once it covers it. Try to get the pruning
done as soon as the flowers finish--usually in early spring. Wisteria sets flower
buds in late summer to early fall, so you don't want to keep pruning it all summer
or you may interfere with flower bud formation.
August 2007
Are there two kinds of wisteria --one that blooms and one that doesn't? We have had
a wisteria vine on an arbor out in the full sun for 3 or 4 years and it has never
bloomed no matter how well we keep it fertilized, watered and pruned.
Wisteria is one of those plants that call for patience. It grows at an alarming rate,
but often can take up to 8- 10 years before it slows down enough to bloom. This is
especially true if the plant was grown from seed. Avoid giving it too much fertilizer,
as this simply aids in the growth rate. Keep it trimmed to the trellis that you have
it on. When you do prune (if you do), prune it in the spring after it should have
bloomed--not late in the season when it is setting flower buds. Once it begins to
bloom, you will get more and more flowers every spring, so just wait.
October 2006
Soon I will be pruning my mandevilla and placing it in my greenhouse. Would you tell
me what part of the vine to use to start new plants? How should I water and fertilize?
Also, the mandevilla that is three years old did not bloom very well this summer.
It is in partial shade. I fertilize with slow release fertilizer and Miracle Gro once
a week. I water every other day.
First of all, mandevilla plants like full sun. If it is not getting at least six to
eight hours of sunlight a day, it won’t bloom well. It also blooms on the new growth,
so if the plant is large and well established and not growing much, that can also
reduce blooming. Prune hard before moving it back outdoors, and consider repotting
then as well. Mandevilla plants can be grown from cuttings. The parts you trim off
in your pruning now could be used. Make sure each cutting is no longer than 3- 4 inches
in length. You may want to use a rooting hormone on the cut end. Even in a greenhouse,
you may want to keep the cuttings in a closed system to keep the humidity high and
prevent the potting medium from drying out. If you are lucky enough to have a mist
bed, don’t worry about it, but many hobby greenhouses don’t have that. A closed system
is the pot inside a plastic bag. You could make a larger chamber since you do have
a greenhouse. No fertilization until well rooted and growing. The soil should be moist
but not waterlogged.
All links to external sites open in a new window. You may return to the University of Arkansas System Division of Agriculture web site by closing this window when you are finished. We do not guarantee the accuracy of the information, or the accessibility for people with disabilities listed at any external site.
Links to commercial sites are provided for information and convenience only. Inclusion of sites does not imply University of Arkansas System Division of Agriculture's approval of their product or service to the exclusion of others that may be similar, nor does it guarantee or warrant the standard of the products or service offered.
The mention of any commercial product in this web site does not imply its endorsement by the University of Arkansas System Division of Agriculture over other products not named, nor does the omission imply that they are not satisfactory.